Rapier:Equipment standards - Metal bladed weapons

Equipment standards - Metal bladed weapons

General

1. Metal bladed weapons include daggers, single-handed swords, and two-handed swords.
2. Weapons must be maintained in good order, with no loose pieces, and no burrs on metal or wooden edges that can snag body or clothing.
3. Bladed weapons must not have more than one blade.
4. Blades can only have at most one substantial curve.
   1. If the blade of a weapon is so curved that the tip does not contact the ground when the grip is perpendicular to the ground (i.e. pointed vertically), it is not allowed. Although examples of blades with extreme curves can be found in period, these swords require highly different mechanics than the swords intended for use by these rules. (See Figure 1)

      

      Figure 1. Excessively curved blades. With the grip vertical, the tip must touch the ground. In this example, the sword on the left is allowed, the sword on the right is not.

      1. You are allowed to use a non-metal version as a defensive object.
   2. If a weapon has multiple small waves about a singular axis, such as a flamberge, it is considered based on its main axis; i.e. each wave is not necessarily a "substantial curve".
5. The length of a blade and grip define the type of weapon. (See Table 13.1 and Figure 2.)

   

   Figure 2. Parts of a weapon, and the measurements of blade (B) and grip (G)

   1. Blade length is measured from the base of the blade (i.e. the front face of the guard, or the front end of the quillons for open guard) to the end of the tip. See Figure 2.
      1. Curved blade length is measured as a straight line from the tip to the base of the blade. (Length is specified by the reach of the weapon).
      2. Highly curved blades that skirt the spirit of the length-reach rules pose potential issues with an exceedingly long aspect ratio, and at the marshal's discretion it may not be allowed.
   2. Grip length (measured from the bottom of the pommel to the base of the blade) makes up the remainder of the overall weapon length.
6. A weapon must not be longer than the total weapon length specified in Table 13.1 and in reference to Figure 2.
7. The Kingdom Rapier Marshal is allowed to make exceptions to the blade length and grip length ratios on a case-by-case basis.
   1. For example, a weapon with a grip of 11 inches could be allowed. If the total length is between 28 inches (710 mmm) and 60 inches (1520 mm), that weapon counts as a sword, if it is shorter, it counts as a dagger.
   2. A weapon must not be longer than the total length allowed for a weapon of its type.
   3. No marshal can allow weapons longer than 60 inches (1520 mm).

Weapon length requirements

	Overall weapon length	Blade length	Grip length
Dagger	Less than or equal to 28 inches (710 mm)	Less than or equal to 18 inches (450 mm)	Less than or equal to 10 inches (250 mm)
Single-handed sword	Less than or equal to 58 inches (1470 mm)	Between 18 inches (450 mm) and 48 inches (1220 mm)	Less than or equal to 10 inches (250 mm)
Two-handed sword	Less than or equal to 60 inches (1520 mm)	Between 30 inches (760 mm) and 48 inches (1220 mm)	Between 10 inches (250 mm) and 24 inches (610 mm)

Blades

1. The blade must be made of steel and must be produced by a commercial entity and crafted for the purpose of competitive sword fighting.
2. Any blade with kinks or cracks must not be used.
   1. If a blade develops these defects and cannot be repaired, it must be retired.
   2. If a blade develops a sharp bend that can be re-curved and not redevelop for at least a day's use, it can continue to be used.
3. A blade must not be altered by grinding, cutting, heating, hammering, or other actions that could significantly alter the blade's temper, flexibility or durability.
   1. Normal combat stresses and blade care do not violate this rule. The following alterations are allowed:
      1. Altering the tang of the weapon
      2. Shortening a blade as long as it still meets the required flexibility
      3. Welding a nut or other blunt metal object designed to spread impact to the tip of a blade, so long as care is taken to prevent damage to the temper of the blade
      4. Filing the end of a blade to blunt the tip, or filing other parts of the blade to remove burrs
4. A blade must meet or exceed the required flexibility.
   1. The marshal will test flexibility by rigidly fixing the blade horizontally along its narrower axis, and placing a 6 oz (170 g) weight at the tip, then measuring how far the tip of the blade has moved downward.
   2. Any flexing due to the blade's weight itself is not counted in the flexibility standard.
   3. The blade must meet this standard in each of two directions (i.e. testing the flexibility of the blade along its flatter dimension, then turn the sword over, 180 degrees, and testing it again.)
   4. Dagger blades must flex at least 1/2 inch (12.5 mm).
   5. Single sword and two-handed sword blades must flex at least 1 inch (25 mm).

Hilts, handles, pommels, and other parts

1. Hilts, handles, pommels, and other parts of a weapon not meant to strike an opponent can be made of metal, wood, leather, or a reasonable facsimile.
2. Handles must be substantially straight, and substantially in line with the main axis of the blade.
3. The ends of quillons must be blunt (no sharp edges or points).

Tips

1. The end of a blade must be blunt with no sharp edges or corners.
2. A blade must have a tip cover of rubber, shatter-resistant polymer, or leather with a minimum size in any direction that strikes your opponent of 3/8 inch (10 mm).
   1. A rubber or polymer tip must have a minimum of 1/8 inch (3 mm) between the striking surface and the tip or edge of the sword.
   2. Leather must be at least 1.6 mm / 1/16 inch / 4 oz thick
3. The tip cover must be secured to prevent it from being dislodged in typical combat.
   1. If tape is used to secure the tip cover, it must be a fiber-reinforced cloth tape. Fabric hockey tape and fiber-reinforced duct tape are examples of good tapes for this application. Electrical tape, PVC tapes, and paper based tapes are not sufficient by themselves to secure the tip cover.
4. The tip cover must be taped in a contrasting color to the tip and blade that extends both onto the tip and onto the blade. The purpose of the contrasting tape is to provide a visual indicator if the tip cover is lost during combat.
   1. Tape should be somewhat resistant to impact with metal, and its adhesive must adhere to rubber and metal. Duct tape, electrical tape, and colored strapping tape are examples of good tapes for this application. Painters tape, masking tape, and other paper based tapes are not.
5. Tape must not cover the face of the tip cover.
6. The tip cover must be replaced if it shows evidence of punch through, cracking or bulging or discoloration (polymer tips).
7. The tip cover should fit snugly on the end of the sword. If necessary, it is recommended that you wrap the blade at the point where the tip ends to create a shoulder for the tip to set on without wobbling.
8. For tips built in a period style, a period alternate to tape may be used, so long as it provides a contrasting color to the blade and the tip and the combination is secured on the sword so that it will not come off under reasonable fighting conditions.